When Steam Donkey Brewing Company opens its doors at the corner of Broadway and Wishkah in downtown Aberdeen Friday, it will be the first time the city has had a beer brewing company of its own in more than 70 years.
The husband and wife team of Jonathan and Stephanie Bennett have been working nonstop for the past year to get their operation going, and are happy to be bringing a tradition of beer brewing back to Aberdeen, the first since Pioneer Brewing Company shut down in 1944. Come 3 p.m. St. Patrick’s Day, visitors will find a cozy place and a selection including an IPA, a Brown Porter, a Strong Bitter and Belgian Pale Ale, all brewed right on site.
“It was kind of weird to us that Aberdeen didn’t have the same kind of brewery presence as the rest of the region,” said Jonathan. “It was a shame to not have a brewery here; we’re glad to bring it back.”
Jonathan got his start in 2011 with a cheap home brewing kit. While the results from that weren’t especially satisfying – “It tasted more like apple cider vinegar than beer,” he joked – Stephanie saw his passion for the craft and for Jonathan’s 25th birthday bought him a quality beer brewing home kit.
“My father in law and his dad used to brew beer back in the 60s,” said Jonathan. “We started in our garage, getting better at it as time went on.”
Meanwhile, Jonathan got a job working at another brewery. In 2015, “We decide it made more sense to do it on our own,” he said. “I just wanted to do my own thing. Then we made a five-year plan, which quickly accelerated to a one-year plan.”
When they decided to take the plunge they went all-in. A small inheritance and a retirement plan cashout provided the seed money. Then it was time to find a location, which in the end turned out to be on the corner of Wishkah and Broadway, the location of a popcorn shop and barbecue restaurant in the past few years.
“At first we dismissed the location because it was too small,” said Stephanie. “We had done a lot of research and development — meaning we visited a lot of breweries — and not many work in this type of space. But we made it fit.”
The location was certainly attractive, and a considerate landlord and the support of their neighboring businesses has helped with the rapid run from conception to opening.
“We’re right in the middle of downtown. We have a great landlord and the neighboring businesses have been really supportive,” said Jonathan. “They have been an integral part of getting this open.”
The Steam Donkey is kid-friendly, like most breweries open to the public tend to be. When you walk in the front door on Wishkah you’ll see the silver brew tanks to your left and right, leading you toward a small bar and a seating area with tables for four. The space is cozy and not dimly lit like your average bar, with windows all along the north and west walls. You can sit and order a pint, or buy a growler to go. While you’re at it, pick up one of their t-shirts, hats and other items with their distinct logo.
“You figure there are cars full of people heading through here on the way to the beach, and most of them have kids with them,” said Stephanie. The attraction is sampling a true local brew on their way through town where the kids can come inside for a break as well. Besides, said Jonathan, “We had a good relationship with the previous owner of the Tap Room, and the new owner has been nothing but helpful. I credit the other businesses around here for really helping us along the way.”
For now, the only place to get Steam Donkey beer will be at the Wishkah location. Jonathan says they will sell kegs to individuals, but “We have no immediate plans to distribute; however that is something we are going to explore once we get into the swing of things.”
Opening weekend hours are 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday, closed on Sunday. Remember, this is a brewery, not a pub, so there is no food service, though the owners invite you to bring your own in with you.
